[ale] OT: question about replacing batteries in a APC UPS
Mike Harrison
meuon at geeklabs.com
Wed Dec 21 10:30:57 EST 2005
Courtney asked:
> What and how do the testers reveal ?
Disclaimer: This is potentially dangerous, don't touch anything metal,
don't wear shoes with metal tacks in the heels.. don't.. (it's a long list)
Good question. Set to AC Volts, (Alternating Current) you can test an
outlet as follows:
The outlet should have 3 plugs.. 2 slots, one larger than the other
and a round hole:
[ |
o
The larger slot on the left is 'neutral' the smaller one on the right
is 'line' or 'hot' and the small circle is 'ground'.
In a perfect world. 'hot' has a sine wave of approximately 117 volts
calculated as a 'root mean square' average of alternating electrical
potential. You want to make sure it's there, and that 'neutral' is
at 0 volts, as is ground.
So with your el-cheapo voltmeter, stick the probe tip black lead in
the 'neutral' and the red lead into 'hot'. You should get 110 to 120 volts AC.
Then move the red lead into 'ground'. You should get 0 volts. Maybe 0.5volts.
but it should be 0. Ground and neutral (in most systems) tie into the
same place back at the breaker panel.. they should have the same
potential.
Then move the black lead to 'hot'. You should get 117 volts. If not,
your ground is open, not grounded. Very common problem in houses.
The purpose of the ground wire is safety. The metal chassis of a
device uses the ground wire as a redundant path back to the breaker
box. If there is 'leakage' via EMF from high voltage electronics
or transformers or.. (lots of things), it should drain down the
ground wire. If it is 'open', a shock potential from the device may
exist. Grounds are also a catastrophic failure protection means.
If a power supply 'melts down' and shorts to ground, the current
should travel back to the break panel at close to 0 volts, and if the
current level is high enough, allow the breaker to trip.
Last test: paranoid mode. If you have something that is grounded
handy, like a metal copper pipe that goes into the earth, large metal
structural supports.. etc.. - Measure between it and the Ground and
Neutral and make sure it's 0 volts or really really close to it. (.5volt?)
and measure between the natural earth ground and 'hot' you should get
110-120 volts.
So.. If all is good, you have a properly wired electrical outlet, there is
one good 'idiot check' you can make on your UPS:
Set your meter to Ohms. A measure of electrical resistance.
With your UPS unplugged, put the black lead on the round pin.
then put the red volt meter lead on any metal on the case.
It should be under 1 ohm. Now move the red lead to the round
plug hole on the outlets. Same thing. 1ohm or less.
On some UPS's you MAY be able to do this with 'hot' and 'neutral' on
the outlet to the cord plug end for hot and neutral, depends
if it's using a relay for power pass through and what it's position
is when 'off'.
Plug your UPS in and turn it on. Repeat the first set of steps for the
outlets on the UPS.
Last test. turn off the power to the UPS, but keep it plugged in (so
ground is still attached) so that the UPS is running on batteries.
It may work better if something is plugged in and running off the UPS
as many of them require a load. Then do the tests again. You will get
something approximating 110-140 volts from neutral to line on the UPS, it
depends on the quality of the site wave your UPS generates. It may read
high if there is no load or a very small one, and/or it produces a squarer
waveform than normal line power.
----------------
Honest disclaimer: I've done these tests and more.. but I usually
just plug them in and see if they work. :) - I did check out the wiring in my house
when I bought it for proper polarity of the pins, and good grounds..
and again when I put in the generator and UPS's.. but I'm insane.
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