[ale] Enclosed Desks

[Jeff Hubbs]

Pay no attention to MacGyver, here...;-)

Back when the Linux General Store existed in its original form, they had
a commercial restaurant dessert display case - basically a squat, wide
refrigerator with glass doors in the front.  They had an Ethernet switch
in there and a bunch of systems.  

Home Depot and/or Lowe's sells a wine cooler - a miniature refrigerator,
maybe 3-1/2' tall, with a curved tinted glass door.  I don't drink (to
the surprise of many of you who read my posts), so the instant I saw
that thing, I thought YES!!  An overclocking booth!!

- Jeff


On Sat, 2002-06-22 at 22:57, James P. Kinney III wrote:
> Get an old working refrigerator. Being very careful, remove the
> evaporator, condenser, compressor and thermostat from the case. All of
> this needs to be intact unless you are a refrigeration engineer. cut the
> back of the PC enclosure space off carefully if it won't remove easily.
> Line the space with heavy plastic on the bottom. Put the evaporator coil
> on a few wood blocks on the bottom. Place a 3/4" plywood panel above the
> the evaporator coils by screwing it to the sides of the enclosure. Leave
> a 2" gap at the front and back of the board between the board and the
> cabinet enclosure. Put tape over all the holes on the back of every PC
> going into the enclosure. Make sure all air intake is from the front and
> all air exhaust it out the back of all machines. Install all machines
> with cables and everything into the enclosure. Using the foam padding
> from all those old hard drive boxes in your garage, seal up all air gaps
> around the back of the pc's. This should act as an air barrier to force
> the exhaust air to flow down the back, under the board, across the
> evaporator coils and then up the front and back into the machines.
> Attach the thermostat on the inside of one of the doors for easy access.
> There should be about 5'-6' of tubing between the evaporator and
> compressor. Cut a hole in the wall between two studs and carefully put
> the compressor and condenser through it to the other side. When you
> patch the sheetrock hole you just cut, leave a small hole around the
> tubing and thermostat wires and cushion them with a bit of the foam.
> Brace the condenser on the other side of the wall and use some black
> pipe insulation as a vibration dampener. Depending on the age of the
> cannibalized fridge, you may need to fabricate a fan mounting system for
> the condenser coils. An old box-style fan works well and the coils can
> be cable tied to it. Wire the fan in series with the compressor. Turn on
> the entire system and boot all machines. The thermostat should work the
> system fine with the temp set to the warmest setting (1 on a scale of
> 10). Don't use the defrost setting.
> 
> Don't do this if you rent.
> 
> On Sat, 2002-06-22 at 12:17, Christopher Fowler wrote:
> > Consensus states to take off the door.  No problem.  I prefer to take it
> > off then leave it open anyway.
> > 
> -- 
> James P. Kinney III   \Changing the mobile computing world/
> President and CEO      \          one Linux user         /
> Local Net Solutions,LLC \           at a time.          /
> 770-493-8244             \.___________________________./
> 
> GPG ID: 829C6CA7 James P. Kinney III (M.S. Physics)
> <jkinney at localnetsolutions.com>
> Fingerprint = 3C9E 6366 54FC A3FE BA4D 0659 6190 ADC3 829C 6CA7 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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