<p>Don't go pissing and moaning at the regulations or the regulators. Instead, direct your justifiable wrath at the engineering design failure that was devised to meet those regulations for the least cost possible.<br>
Bluntly, unless you are an automotive engine engineer, replace the part that failed instead of wasting time on a work around. You may be able to get a good working used part from one of the many salvage yards for much less.<br>
If you want to go really cheap, you can crack that pump open and clean the crud off the bwaring surfaces (likely sleeve bearings) polish it up with a buffer on a dremel and put it back into service. The vacuum hoses just need replacing or you can do the duct tape covering for cheap.<br>
As with most things, modular replacement is the norm for modern cars. Most crap under the hood with wires or hoses or both is designed for disposal after failure. <br>
I have my "project car" , a 1981 Porsche 924 Turbo, but the stuff I drive daily goes to the mechanic. I like (what's left of) my sanity.</p>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Sep 7, 2011 11:00 AM, "David Hillman" <<a href="mailto:hillmands@gmail.com">hillmands@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution">> This may be a little bit left field, but it's still a technical problem. I<br>
> spent the better part of the last weekend underneath my car--a 2002<br>> Volkswagen Passat AWD--trying to do a couple of things. One, I was looking<br>> to add a computer in the dashboard that is to be hooked up to the ODBII port<br>
> for diagnostics information. It'll run Angstrom Linux on a Beagleboard (<br>> <a href="http://beagleboard.org/project/angstrom/">http://beagleboard.org/project/angstrom/</a>). Two, I tried to remove the<br>> secondary air pump and the myriad of vacuum lines that have been giving me<br>
> hell over the last year. The pump is seized up and I have a vacuum leak<br>> somewhere in that rat's nest. Getting to the pump requires the removal of<br>> the entire front bumper and radiator assembly from the car. The price of<br>
> the pump is $400 - $600. That is a whole lot of cash for very limited<br>> benefits.<br>> <br>> Why is the air pump useless? Well, it doesn't prove that my car has a real<br>> drivability problem; that's what the O2, mass air flow and other sensors are<br>
> for. My car's engine is in absolutely splendid condition. I don't mess<br>> around with that. The only benefit to the air pump system is to get the<br>> catalytic converters get warmed up a little bit earlier in colder climates.<br>
> <br>> The pump failed because too much moisture got in from the exhaust system and<br>> eventually rusted out the motor. Connected to the pump are a couple of<br>> valves that open up during warm up to let air into the exhaust system.<br>
> Those valves can sometimes fail, letting moisture-filled exhaust into the<br>> pump motor. Such a complicated system is mandated by our wonderful<br>> government greenies. I am all for "green", but this is ridiculous. All<br>
> this has done is add weight (heavy pump) and a whole lot of complexity to my<br>> wagon that I love. Unfortunately, it's nearly impossible to remove the<br>> system without reprogramming the engine management computer. If I don't do<br>
> the reprogramming, the car won't pass the emissions test. It won't pass the<br>> test with a bad pump anyway. Spending money that could go into finishing my<br>> project is giving me a headache. Trying to figure out how to reprogram the<br>
> engine computer is giving me a much bigger headache.<br>> <br>> Is there to get around the emissions requirements in Georgia? I called the<br>> tag office, but I got put on hold for an eternity.<br></div>