Pulling out the way back machine, I recall the first computer I ever built (actually upgraded). I started out with a genuine IBM PC XT as I recall, at least it did have a genuine IBM Color Graphics Card and Quadchrome CGA monitor. So I bought a hot new 12MHz motherboard & CPU and put it in the box and no video! I actually went through 3 motherboards till I got one that ran the ISA bus at a slower clock speed closer to what the original IBM PC did (4.77MHz w/ 4 wait states as I recall). The problem was that my fast NEW motherboard was too fast for my slow OLD CGA card. Perhaps you are experiencing a similar race condition (hot card w/ lots of RAM not finishing initializing before the POST moves on to the next device?). Maybe try setting the BOOT options in BIOS to the slowest possible, ie, do NOT enable "quick boot" mode and also try with BIOS defaults (the failsafe, not the optimal). <br>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 10:07 AM, Scott Castaline <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:skotchman@gmail.com">skotchman@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div class="im"><br>
> On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 6:53 AM, Paul Cartwright <<a href="mailto:ale@pcartwright.com">ale@pcartwright.com</a><br>
</div><div><div></div><div class="h5">> <mailto:<a href="mailto:ale@pcartwright.com">ale@pcartwright.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> On 01/06/2011 12:35 AM, Greg Clifton wrote:<br>
> > I always prefer to grab a new video card out of the anti-static<br>
> bag by<br>
> > the mounting bracket which is attached to the ground plane of<br>
> the board<br>
> > and then touch the power supply in the computer with my other hand<br>
> > (while still holding the graphics card) to equalize the charge. Of<br>
> > course, it should go without saying that you should unplug the power<br>
> > cord to your power supply before you install the new card, but I<br>
> have<br>
> > been known to forget about the 5V standby power.<br>
><br>
> I would go one step further & grab the anti-static bag THEN touch the<br>
> power supply, THEN open the bag & grab the card by the bracket.<br>
> My mother just called me yesterday ( Hartford,CT). She was trying<br>
> to add<br>
> her printer to her new laptop. She said it went POP and the screen<br>
> went<br>
> blank. First I asked if she had it plugged into an UPS. After a small<br>
> exchange of questions, finally I got the answer YES. I also asked<br>
> about<br>
> humidity & static. She said it WAS staticy, as she had not turned<br>
> on her<br>
> humidifier yet. I told her how sensitive electronics are, and how she<br>
> should ground herself ( discharge) any static before touching the<br>
> laptop<br>
> case, otherwise BAD THINGS HAPPEN.... Anyway, turns out the<br>
> battery was<br>
> bad, she got a new one, and it is working again. I need to remind<br>
> her to<br>
> fire up the humidifier! Even down here in GA, my humidifier pumps out<br>
> about 3-4 gallons per day, I've got to fill those 1.2 gallon tanks 2-3<br>
> times every day!<br>
><br>
><br>
> --<br>
> Paul Cartwright<br>
> Registered Linux user # 367800<br>
> Registered Ubuntu User #12459<br>
><br>
</div></div>Just read your humidifier comments. I used to live in Florida and had<br>
participated in a demo/study at one of my jobs where we worked inside a<br>
factory/plant environment. Even though the outside air/humidity was<br>
around 67% - 80% normally we still had static problems inside. People<br>
tend to think that just because they live in a humid sub-tropical<br>
environment that's the outside, inside you normally have air<br>
conditioning, which is essentially a big dehumidifier. The study showed<br>
that our inside humidity was no more than 50%. Now a days those<br>
environment systems usually also have humidity controls as well as<br>
temperature.<br>
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