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Go to Radio Shack, or better yet, Ack Electronics, and buy new capacitors of the correct value. Make sure that when you replace them, you make sure that you have the polarity exactly as the old one you removed was. It is extremely important that DC caps are installed with the correct polarity, or they won't last very long.<BR>
<BR>
If your luck is like mine, the one you leave in place will be the one that's causing the problem.<BR>
<BR>
Dan<BR>
<BR>
On Mon, 2010-10-11 at 16:49 -0600, Joe Knapka wrote:
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<PRE>
I have a couple old mobos around, from which I think I can harvest
enough good caps to fix up the broken one. This is gonna be fun!
Out of curiosity, how close do I need to be on the cap values? There
are 5 3300uF ones on the broken board, and I found *four* good 3300uF
ones on an old Celeron mobo. The next closest one I can find to
harvest is 2000uF. Y'all think that would work OK? Maybe I can leave
the best of the five on the broken board in and replace the others, at
least as an initial test.
Thanks,
-- JK
On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 3:01 PM, Charles Shapiro
<<A HREF="mailto:hooterpincher@gmail.com">hooterpincher@gmail.com</A>> wrote:
> Ouch. Had that ( <A HREF="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague</A> )
> happen to one of my machines in 2004 or so. I chucked the MB and
> bought a new one.
>
> -- CHS
>
> On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 4:48 PM, Joe Knapka <<A HREF="mailto:jknapka@kneuro.net">jknapka@kneuro.net</A>> wrote:
>> I'm pretty sure it's not the fan, because when I did get the machine
>> to boot into the BIOS, the BIOS status screen reported fan speeds in
>> the 3000-4000 RPM range.
>>
>> I'll definitely look into the capacitor problem, though. My soldering
>> skills are only fair, but this might be a good opportunity for a
>> Learning Experience :-) I don't know exactly when the board was
>> manufactured, but it's a BioStar 6100-M9 Socket 939.
>>
>> Woah. It's capacitors. Two of the big 3300uF ones right by the CPU
>> socket are cracked like eggs. Gotta find that soldering iron and the
>> desolder .
>>
>> -- JK
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 11:36 AM, Calvin Harrigan
>> <<A HREF="mailto:charriglists@bellsouth.net">charriglists@bellsouth.net</A>> wrote:
>>> Could it be the fan? It might be spinning, but not sending any feedback
>>> to the MB and the MB thinks the fan is kaput. This feature is usually
>>> only available on higher end boards though. Most usually depend on
>>> temperature. Just an idea. What year was the board manufactured?
>>> Could you be suffering from bad capacitors? Most if not all
>>> motherboards have a low voltage high current powersupply for the
>>> CPU,Memory on board, the capacitors there could be at fault. Look for
>>> capacitors whose tops seem puffy or have stains, leaks, etc. Most are
>>> relatively easy to replace if you have any experience with a soldering iron.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/11/2010 1:13 PM, Joe Knapka wrote:
>>>> I've already replaced the PS with a new-in-box one, with no change in
>>>> behavior. So I don't think that's it.
>>>>
>>>> It's a socket 939 mobo; those seem to be hard to get these days. Looks
>>>> like at least mobo and CPU, and probably RAM, will need to be
>>>> replaced.
>>>>
>>>> Bleh.
>>>>
>>>> -- JK
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 9:25 AM, Scott Castaline<<A HREF="mailto:skotchman@gmail.com">skotchman@gmail.com</A>> wrote:
>>>>> On 10/11/2010 10:43 AM, Joe Knapka wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 7:38 AM, Jim Kinney<<A HREF="mailto:jim.kinney@gmail.com">jim.kinney@gmail.com</A>> wrote:
>>>>>>> true. easy test for that is to boot to the bios and leave it alone. There's
>>>>>>> no throttling in the bios for cpu speed AND you can run the temp page and
>>>>>>> watch for issues there.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was going to try this, but this morning the machine won't turn on at
>>>>>> all. That is, press power button, fans spin up for about 1 second,
>>>>>> then immediately everything turns off. Pulled the power switch off
>>>>>> the mobo and used a screwdriver between the pins to power up, and got
>>>>>> the same behavior. Pulled the RAM, same behavior. Wish I had an
>>>>>> alternate CPU to test. Anyway I guess swapping out the mobo is the
>>>>>> next move.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- JK
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Ale mailing list
>>>>>> <A HREF="mailto:Ale@ale.org">Ale@ale.org</A>
>>>>>> <A HREF="http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale">http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale</A>
>>>>>> See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
>>>>>> <A HREF="http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo">http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo</A>
>>>>> If memory serves me correctly, you need a resistive load across the
>>>>> voltage outputs, otherwise the PSU will behave like that. They do make
>>>>> test plugs or at least used to for PSUs that provide the load needed to
>>>>> turn on. If it does the same thing with the plug then it's the PSU. Also
>>>>> I think that HDDs do provide enough load to trigger the PSU to stay on.
>>>>> Did you have any hdds, optical drives still plugged in? It's possible
>>>>> that one of them is dragging down the PSU.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Ale mailing list
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>>>>> <A HREF="http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale">http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale</A>
>>>>> See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
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>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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